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年份垂直品鑑 — 倉儲對比

倉儲對比垂直品鑑 — 布朗 2014

*Bùlǎng* 2014

布朗 2014

三份樣品,同一片茶餅 — 品味昆明、布里亞特與佛山倉儲,如何為同一款 2014 年布朗生普洱寫下截然不同的故事。

$264USD · 120 g

Weight
120 g
Harvest
Spring 2014
Elevation
1500 m
Cultivar
Bulang large-leaf assamica
Processing
Traditional sheng pu-erh: withering, pan-fry kill-green, rolling, sun-drying, stone-pressed into 200 g cakes. One cake split into three 40 g samples, each stored in Kunming (Yunnan), Ulan-Ude (Buryatia), and Foshan (Guangdong) since 2014.
Sourced by

從布朗山的廚房到世界的三個酒窖

在 2014 年,我拜訪了布朗山上一家小型家庭作坊,地點在緬甸邊境的高處。壓製這片茶餅的人 — 老李,如今早已退休 — 為我泡了一杯 sheng,其力道猛烈,讓我的嘴唇發麻。我們當時都同意:這款茶需要耐心陳化。我帶走了十片茶餅,同時也帶著一個問題:同一批原料,在茶世界的不同角落,會演變出怎樣的風貌?

一片茶餅回到昆明,安放在乾燥溫和的倉庫中。另一片我帶著它穿越西伯利亞鐵路,來到我在布里亞特的茶窖,那裡每年有六個月,冬季的寒氣會讓茶葉凍結進入休眠。第三片我託付給佛山的一位朋友,他的後房呼吸著珠江三角洲濕熱的空氣。十年來,我每年造訪它們,靜靜地沖泡,細細地聆聽。

如今,這三份各 40 克的樣品,將這長達十年的對話,直接帶到你的杯中。昆明切片明亮、緊緻,仍帶著山巒的青春氣息。布里亞特令人驚歎:超慢速發酵,在凍融循環中深化,呈現絲絨與樹脂般的質感。佛山 — 最為極端 — 嚐起來比實際年齡老了二十歲,滿是梅子與樟腦風味。這不僅是品茶。而是品嚐地理、天氣,乃至時間本身。

The leaf, brewed

One tea, three cellars

dry leaf

Kunming sample: lightly loosened, dark green leaves with a high, honeyed floral lift. Buryatia sample: tight compression, deep olive-black, aroma of old books and damp earth after a Siberian winter. Foshan sample: leaf edges browning, fragrance of plum skin and wet stone.

wet leaf

Kunming leaf opens quickly, releasing green-bean freshness; Buryatia takes two rinses to wake, unfolding leather and tobacco; Foshan shows immediate dark fruit and a roasted-grain warmth.

liquor

Kunming yields shimmering gold, bright and clean; Buryatia pours a deep amber with a mahogany rim; Foshan offers copper-orange, dense and slightly opaque.

aroma

Side by side: Kunming vibrates with green floral, Buryatia hums low woody spice, Foshan broadcasts ripe stone fruit and faint camphor.

taste

Kunming delivers a punchy, crisp bitterness that melts into sweet sugarcane; Buryatia offers a smooth, broad mouthfeel, leather and resins, almost no bite; Foshan strikes with dark cherry, brown sugar, and a gentle, rounded astringency.

finish

Kunming finish is quick, bright, with returning sweetness; Buryatia lingers long with a cooling mineral kick; Foshan leaves a stewed-fruit residue and a slow, coating huigan.

Brewing

A method, not a recipe.

Method
gongfu
Ratio
1:15 (6 g per 100 ml)
Water temp
95
First infusion
10
Subsequent
8–10 infusions, starting at 10 s and adding roughly 5 s per steep after the third.

我們強烈建議使用相同的瓷蓋碗和水,同時沖泡三份樣品。溫熱器具,如有需要,布里亞特那泡可於第一泡多浸泡 5 秒。

Sourced by

Amgalan Chin

跨區域茶葉專家與技術專員

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