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年份垂直品鑑

易武垂直品鑑 — 2014 · 2019 · 2024

<i>Yì Wǔ</i>

易武

來自同一間麻黑作坊的三款壓製茶,捕捉十年生茶轉化的軌跡 — 從明亮的杏桃與草原風味,演變至深沉的梅子、樟木與古董木質香。

$300USD · 120 g

Weight
120 g
Harvest
Spring 2014 · Spring 2019 · Spring 2024
Elevation
1100 m
Cultivar
Yiwu native large-leaf
Processing
Traditional sheng: hand-picked, wok-fired, sun-dried, stone-pressed at Mahei family workshop.
Sourced by

麻黑、三次壓製,以及烏蘭巴托的地窖

這組垂直品鑑源自 Amgalan Chin 與老查家族長久培養的關係,他們的小作坊坐落在易武麻黑村的邊緣。2014 年春天,Amgalan 首次前往當地 — 並非經由常見的昆明路線,而是歷經數月沿著從蒙古穿越西伯利亞的古老茶馬古道跋涉後抵達。他與這個家族同住了兩星期,親手從生長在海拔 1,100 公尺石灰岩山坡上、樹齡八十年的原生茶樹上挑選茶葉。

他委託將當年頭春茶壓製成一批:經過精心炒青、竹蓆日曬,再以石模壓成 200 克茶餅。其餘毛茶則留給該家族保管,在他們的閣樓中以散茶形式陳化。

2019 年,Amgalan 再次歸來 — 這次他搭乘西伯利亞鐵路,帶著一箱黑茶樣品 — 找到了那些存放的茶葉。這個家族同意採用相同的製程壓製第二批,觀察五年的易武空氣如何改變了茶葉原料。2019 年的茶餅就此誕生。

到了 2024 年,這項傳統已然確立。又一次回訪,又一次來自相同茶樹的壓製,仍由同一雙手操持。每一塊茶餅都隨著 Amgalan 回到他在烏蘭巴托恆溫的地窖,那裡乾燥的大陸性氣候減緩並使陳化更為細膩。

這套組合首次呈現出這條曲線上的三個節點 — 一個關於風土與耐心的垂直品鑑,而非倉促的收藏品。

The leaf, brewed

A decade in three cups — from apricot brightness to deep plum and camphor

dry leaf

Neatly compressed cakes: 2024 shows silver-green tips, 2019 golden-brown, 2014 dark amber leaves with a faint, aged sweetness.

wet leaf

After rinse, 2024 opens with fresh meadow and stone fruit; 2019 reveals leather and dried dates; 2014 exudes aged wood, camphor, and antique books.

liquor

2024: pale gold, brilliant clarity; 2019: amber, oily and viscous; 2014: deep copper, translucent with a clear rim.

aroma

A progression from wildflower honey and apricot (2024) through prune and sandalwood (2019) to cooling camphor, resin, and a hint of ginseng (2014).

taste

2024 bursts with ripe apricot and citrus, moderate bitterness that melts into sweet aftertaste; 2019 layers dried plum, leather, and brown sugar; 2014 is smooth and mellow, dark cherry over camphor, with a whisper of ginseng root.

finish

2024: long, mouthwatering, sweet huigan. 2019: persistent mineral sweetness. 2014: deep, expansive, cooling — huigan that lingers in the throat for minutes.

Brewing

A method, not a recipe.

Method
gongfu
Ratio
1:15 (5g per 75ml vessel)
Water temp
95
First infusion
10s rinse, then 15s
Subsequent
8+ infusions per cake. Increase each steep by 5s. Side-by-side tasting recommended.

使用一致的工夫茶沖泡參數沖泡三款年份茶,以區隔陳化帶來的影響。溫杯之後,觀察茶湯如何隨著年份逐年加深。

Sourced by

Amgalan Chin

跨區域茶葉專家與技術專員

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